Thursday, July 9, 2009

A caring heart in Midrand

Today I met up with a lady who works in an impoverished area in the suburb of Midrand. I was able to meet Margaret, a lady who runs a care center in the neighborhood. Margaret and her workers help the elderly, children, and those who are HIV infected. It was a humbling experience to hear Margaret’s stories about a six-year-old caring for her two-year-old brother, the problem of rats in the neighborhood and the elderly who beg her not to leave them.

I also saw how business is done in areas like this, and I look forward to talking with my students about the idea of entrepreneurship for survival. You can get anything on the side of the road – tires, hubcaps, fruit, clothes, curtains, cabs for a truck, window frames. I saw a man making bricks and selling them. You can even get your car serviced on the side of the road.

Overall my time in Midrand was draining – though I would go back again tomorrow if I could. When I left, I spent a few quiet hours at the Johannesburg Botanical Gardens. The place was beautiful, but it’s winter here so many things were not in bloom. I can’t imagine what the place would look like in the summer!

I can’t believe tomorrow (Friday) is my last full day in southern Africa. I have a breakfast meeting with some more individuals from the Wits Business School and a dinner meeting tomorrow night at Moyo – where they offer an “all-African dining experience.”

This may be my last blog on this journey. Thanks for joining me!

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

A different side of Jo’burg

Yesterday I saw a different side of Jo’burg. I drove through beautiful suburbs with huge houses – the only thing I’d seen of the city thus far – to the suburb of Soweto. Many of the houses there were in bad shape – some were simply pieces of tin leaning against one another to form shelter.

In Soweto I drove by Freedom Square where the Freedom Charter, an alternative vision to the repressive policies of the apartheid state, was drawn up. I stopped by the Regina Mundi church which offered sanctuary during the riots of 1976. And I was able to spend some time at the Hector Pieterson memorial which marks that sad day (June 16, 1976) when Hector Pieterson who was only 12-years-old was shot during a peaceful protest over the imposition of Afrikaans as a medium of instruction in township schools.

I also visited the Apartheid Museum yesterday. In front of the museum a quote from Nelson Mandela reads, “For to be free is not merely to cast off one's chains, but to live in a way that respects and enhances the freedom of others.”

This quote became even more meaningful as I saw hundreds of gallows representing political prisoners who were killed, read signs showing the segregation of the time, and learned about the current constitution of South Africa which affirms, “The state may not unfairly discriminate directly or indirectly against anyone on one or more grounds, including race, gender, sex, pregnancy, marital status, ethnic or social origin, colour, sexual orientation, age, disability, religion, conscience, belief, culture, language and birth.” One of my contacts explained to me that it’s a constitution which South Africa is growing into – which has not and will not be easy.

I’m still processing all of this. And all of it does tie to business culture. Anyone who wishes to do business in South Africa must understand the country’s past and its future.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

“I've a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore…”

Wow! Johannesburg is completely different from Gaborone. It really does remind me of a big city in the States. Some places remind me of NYC, but the first place it reminded me of was Seattle – since it’s very hilly. The area where my hotel is, Rosebank, reminds me of a cute Chicago neighborhood. Luck would have it that I’m only a block from the Rosebank mall – with high-end shops that could get me into trouble! Most everyone is dressed to the nines here in Rosebank.

When I flew in I noticed the difference right away. We flew over many big houses with large swimming pools. And the airport is quite expansive.

However, there are clues that remind me that I’m not in the States. For example, I keep seeing ladies carrying items on their heads. I didn’t realize people still do this, but I’ve seen this several times now. They carry large bags and baskets, for example. The ladies don’t even use their hands to balance the objects – they just walk at a quick pace around town with the item balanced perfectly, hands free. It’s quite impressive! I can’t even walk with a single book on my head. I would love to get a photo, but I don’t want to offend anyone.

Yesterday I drove through the business district of Jo’burg. The area is downtown and called the Central Business District (CBD). You can see the tall buildings in one of the photos in the slideshow. Also, I crossed the Nelson Mandela Bridge. And, I had a profitable meeting yesterday at the Wits Business School. Still much to do and see here in Jo’burg. I have 4 days and counting… must go explore!

Monday, July 6, 2009

The importance of one mannerism exemplified

I should clarify from one of my earlier blogs that while qualitative research doesn’t necessarily follow the scientific method, there are checks and balances within the method, the researcher does go in with a research question, and, while it’s harder if not impossible to generalize from the results, qualitative research does often produce anecdotal evidence which can help us to better understand people, actions and cultures.

One thing that I learned about countries in southern Africa (including South Africa and Botswana) was about – of all things – feet! In Kiss, Bow, or Shake Hands under the “gestures” section the book states, “The foot is considered unclean by many South Africans. Do not move anything with your feet, and do not touch anything with your feet.”

I was able to witness the importance of this rule – though it was not in a business context. I was at the airport in Gaborone, Botswana checking in for my flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. I had met a gentleman from Holland at my hotel, and we were on the same flight and chatting in line – the long line that was not moving, I should add! When we were able to move even a centimeter, we did. Everyone in line wanted to feel we were making some progress after standing in the same spot for over 30 minutes.

At one point, we were able to move, but a man in front of us had stepped out of line. The man from Holland barely inched the man’s suitcase forward with his foot. He did not kick it; he barely nudged it – something we would do in the States without a second thought. The man who was from southern Africa blew up. He got in the man’s face and yelled, “That is not acceptable in this country! Where in the world is that acceptable?” He became violent (kicking the man’s suitcase) and said a few other things I should not write in a blog that is PG rated! He was furious and kept commenting how rude it was.

This would likely not happen in the business world, as people are often more accommodating. One would probably not be yelled and cursed at. However, it would be easy to offend someone without realizing it, and one could leave the table coming off as rude, insensitive and simply not aware – probably not the savvy image they were going for.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Heading to Jo’burg

I leave for South Africa shortly and will be in Jo’burg for the week. Hope my travel goes smoothly. I had a couple of glitches on the way here – lost luggage, no shuttle to pick me up as had been arranged – but these are things to expect when one travels internationally. You just have to be flexible and make the best of everything – even the challenges.

I’ve heard South Africa is more like the States and that Jo’burg is like New York. I’m excited to check out the city for myself!

Friday, July 3, 2009

The village of Manyana

It was nice getting out of Gaborone (the capital of Botswana) yesterday. Really, the capital is quite westernized, and the moment we were out of the city, any resemblance to the US was hard to find. The buildings were simpler, most people walk or use donkey carts rather than cars, and there are cows, goats and donkeys everywhere – even crossing the road in front of traffic – happy and independent as could be with no owners or fences near! They looked quite happy, anyway.

We drove to the village of Manyana. On our drive, Mompoloki explained that there are three kinds of residence in Botswana – in the town, in the village or in the land. The people who live and work in the land migrate often so they set up housing that is not permanent – so you still see some mud huts out in the fields. Also, even the people local to Botswana who live in the town of Gaborone belong to a village. That’s where they go to celebrate holidays.

I learned about Botswana culture, saw a traditional dance and tried some traditional cuisine at a cultural lodge near to the village. The food was delightful: sorghum (made of maze or grains – it’s like porridge), morogo (the leaves from beans), and seswaa (shredded beef). Seswaa is a Botswana favorite – served at weddings, funerals, and all other celebrations. I was told I could eat as much as I wanted – since it’s not pumped full of the hormones that American beef is!

I’m wrapping up my stay here in Botswana. It will be hard to leave.

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Research… because I like people.

The research that I’m doing – that I do – is qualitative. From my experiences, I would say that many business people don’t much like qualitative research, but my background is in communication! Qualitative research involves observation and talking with people more than surveys and number crunching. Okay, it’s not quite that simple, but it may help people better understand what I’m looking for while in these two countries.

I’m looking at how the business cultures in Botswana and South Africa differ from the US – well, that’s what I came looking for. After my conversations thus far, I think looking at the differences between the two countries here in Africa is what will truly be interesting. They are bordering nations, yet, just like anywhere else in the world, proximity doesn’t make them similar. Everything grows out of culture – even business practices.

I consulted a book used frequently when researching international business: Kiss, Bow or Shake Hands. (As of now, the book does not cover Botswana, but it does have a chapter on South Africa.) This book tells you what you need to know when going into a country to conduct business – appropriate dress, gestures not to use, gifts to bring, etc. The book does not entirely get into the why, however. And that is only answered by having an understanding of the country’s culture.

Culture – that’s the fun part of this trip and of the research! That’s why I’m able to explore, go to museums, and just simply chat with people. Tomorrow one of my contacts here, Mompoloki Bagwasi (she went to Indiana University for her PhD and now works in the Department of English at the University of Botswana) is taking me to a village. What an experience – I’m sure I will have much to write about tomorrow!